This book is a fascinating insight into the exotic cuisines of a diverse range of countries stretching from Persia to Italy. Saghar Setareh, was born in Tehran and, at 22 years old, found herself in Italy where her love affair with food and culture began in earnest. Pomegranates & Artichokes is a personal collection of over 80 delicious recipes that she discovered over many years on her journeys spanning Persia, the Mediterranean and Italian shores.

This is simply one of the most exciting and delightful cookbooks that has passed my desk in the past 18 months. It is beautifully produced in hardcover and elegantly designed with full-colour photographs. Engaging anecdotes, stories and history about a diverse range of ingredients and cooking methods are included with traditional recipes, many of which have been passed down for generations in families. Whether introducing her grandmother’s or mother’s recipes such as Morgh-e-shekam por (Saffron roast chicken stuffed with dried fruit), or a rustic Italian soup such as Vellutata di caciofi e patate (a simple artichoke soup), there is something absolutely captivating about Saghar’s stories.

Cooks will appreciate the helpful list of pantry staples that introduces each cuisine. A sample of menus provides ideas from simple BBQs to a more elaborate Summer Meze feast, and special occasions like Christmas or Norouz. The bibliography and list of references is fascinating reading. Setareh is a food writer, photographer and runs Persian and Italian cooking classes in Italy. Anyone interested in culture and food will love this cookbook and the insights Saghar makes about the parallels between Middle Eastern and Mediterranean food cultures.

Reviewed by Karen Williams

A SIMPLE PORRIDGE WITH ROSEWATER

Fereni, or firni (sometimes written phirni), is one of those foods common across today’s Iran, the Levant and India. You’d know it by the name kheer in India – but this is a word you should not really say in front of Iranians, because they’d either laugh at you (and that would be embarrassing), or they’d go red in the face (as they’d be embarrassed), because it sounds very much like a rude word in Persian for penis.

This sweet porridge is like a warm hug from someone smelling of roses and caresses all the way from your mouth to your belly.

For me it’s a loving memory from those cold Friday mornings as a child when I had a sore throat (or not). It’s super easy to prepare and makes a perfect excuse for a bit of morning mindfulness in the form of ‘stirring’.

Serves 4-6

• ½ cup (80 g) rice flour
• 4 cups (1 litre) milk
• ¼ –1/3 cup (55-75 g) sugar, or to taste
• 2 tablespoons rosewater
• dried rose petals and chopped pistachios, to garnish (optional)

Mix the rice flour in the cold milk until smooth, then pour into a pot. Cook over medium–low heat, whisking all the time, until the fereni starts to thicken; the timing is highly variable, depending on your ingredients, so consistency is the best indicator here. Stir in the sugar and rosewater and cook for a few more minutes.

You can either serve it hot (the way I prefer it), or let it cool, then refrigerate in individual small bowls and serve cold. Garnish with rose petals and pistachios, if using.