When Yotam Ottolenghi endorses a book, you know it must be a winner. Eleanor Ford’s The Nutmeg Trail is an illuminating and inspirational guide to the rich, tumultuous history of the ancient spice routes and how spices not only changed the course of history, but how they influence the food we eat today. It includes different techniques for various spices and how to use them to create well-balanced, vibrant meals.
The word ‘spice’ derives from the Latin species, meaning merchandise of special value. Although commonplace now, spices were once rare, highly sought-after exotic goods. The price of a single brown nutmeg, for example, outstripped that of gold and many bloody wars were fought, fortunes made and lost, and countries colonised when the spice trade began.
The Nutmeg Trail covers what a spice is, and begins with a very useful anatomy and basic library of 29 spices, from tumeric to sumac. It also includes a collection of 30 lesser known spices, such as dried lime and lemon myrtle, to add to your basics. As well as a section on building your culinary skills (from choosing, storing to infusing spices), there is load of extremely helpful information. This includes how to build your collection, combine and layer flavours, flavour profiles of spices (from sweet and warming, fragrant and floral to sour), a guide to individual countries and their spices and,(this is fabulous) a map of spice blends (for curries).
Recipes range from Jasmine Tea-Smoked Chicken, Caramelised Onion Rice, Aubergine and Toasted Coconut Curry, Turkish Winter Vegetables, Massaman Beef Curry and Indonesian Seafood Gulai – just to name a few. If you want more, you will have to buy the book.
You won’t regret it!
Reviewed by Karen Williams









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